Stringing beads onto leather and suede cord introduces an entirely different aesthetic and structural quality to beaded jewelry. Unlike traditional stringing materials such as flexible wire or thread, leather and suede bring a tactile richness and earthy elegance that can transform even the simplest of designs into something visually grounded and texturally engaging. These materials are especially popular in rustic, bohemian, tribal, and contemporary designs, offering durability along with a distinctive visual presence. However, working with leather and suede cord requires a different approach than stringing on finer materials, as the cords are thicker, less flexible, and demand a specific range of compatible components.
Leather cord is typically made from cowhide or other animal hide that has been tanned and cut into narrow strips. It comes in various diameters, commonly ranging from 1mm to 3mm, with 1.5mm and 2mm being popular choices for jewelry projects. Suede cord, while similar in use, differs in texture and flexibility. It is often softer and flatter, with a velvety nap that gives it a more casual, textured appearance. Both types of cord are available in a variety of colors and finishes, including natural, dyed, and metallic-coated versions, which can significantly influence the final look of a piece. Selecting the appropriate cord size and style is critical, as it must match the scale and function of the beads being used.
The first and often most challenging aspect of stringing beads onto leather or suede is finding beads with holes large enough to accommodate the cord. Most standard beads are designed for finer materials and will not fit thicker cords. For this reason, beads used in leather or suede stringing are typically large-holed varieties such as European-style beads, pony beads, large-hole gemstones, wood beads, or hand-drilled ceramic and metal beads. Some designers choose to modify beads themselves using a bead reamer or small drill to widen the holes, but this requires precision and caution to avoid cracking or damaging the beads.
Once appropriate beads are selected, stringing them onto leather or suede is generally straightforward. However, depending on the finish of the cord and the material of the bead, some friction can occur during stringing. For tight-fitting beads, a small amount of wax or a twisting motion can help ease them onto the cord. In the case of suede, where the edges can sometimes fray slightly, trimming the tip to a slight point and stiffening it with a bit of glue or wax can make threading easier. A collapsible needle is usually not necessary, but a loop of fine wire can be used to pull the cord through particularly snug beads if needed.
Design considerations for leather and suede stringing often include spacing and movement. Because these cords are less flexible than thread or wire, beads do not drape in the same way and tend to stay where they are placed unless additional movement is built into the design. To secure beads in place or prevent them from sliding, knots are frequently used on either side of the bead. This not only holds the bead in position but adds to the decorative quality of the piece. Overhand knots, sliding knots, and lark’s head knots are commonly used and can be incorporated into the visual rhythm of the design.
Finishing jewelry made with leather or suede cord requires specific types of findings. Unlike wire or thread, which can be crimped or tied easily, leather and suede need to be finished with end caps, cord ends, or coil crimps that are specifically sized to grip the cord securely. These findings may be glued on using strong, flexible jewelry adhesive, or in the case of fold-over or crimp-style ends, flattened in place with pliers. Choosing the correct size of the end component is essential to ensure a snug and durable fit. Many designers also use button and loop closures, which can be tied directly into the leather or suede and offer a rustic, handcrafted look that complements the material’s natural aesthetic.
Clasps used with leather and suede cord are often chosen for both function and style. Lobster clasps, toggle clasps, and hook-and-eye closures are all suitable, but they must be compatible with the size of the end findings. Some designers opt for adjustable sliding knot closures or tie-on designs that avoid metal findings altogether, preserving a more organic feel. These knot-based closures are particularly popular in casual or unisex designs and allow for size customization without tools.
One of the benefits of using leather or suede in bead stringing is the unique interplay between the materials. The softness of suede, for example, can contrast beautifully with shiny metal or glass beads, creating a tactile dynamic that enhances the overall experience of wearing the piece. Leather, with its smooth finish and natural grain, lends itself well to more structured or geometric designs. Both materials age gracefully, developing a patina over time that adds character and depth to the jewelry.
Caring for leather and suede stringed jewelry involves some specific precautions. These materials are porous and sensitive to moisture, oils, and chemicals, so pieces should be kept away from water, perfumes, and lotions. Suede can be gently cleaned with a soft brush to restore its nap, while leather can benefit from occasional conditioning with a small amount of leather balm or oil. Proper storage in a dry, cool place will prolong the life and appearance of the cord.
Stringing beads onto leather and suede cord offers a powerful way to create jewelry that feels both grounded and expressive. The tactile quality of the materials, combined with the strategic use of spacing, knots, and large-hole beads, opens up a world of design possibilities. While it presents its own set of challenges compared to finer stringing methods, the result is often a distinctive, personal piece that speaks to both craftsmanship and creativity. For jewelry makers interested in texture, contrast, and a more organic approach to design, working with leather and suede cord can be a deeply satisfying and visually impactful direction in the art of stringing.