In the world of beading, few things are as crucial yet often overlooked as the selection of bead thread. The thread is not just a structural necessity; it plays a defining role in the durability, flexibility, and overall appearance of a finished piece. Choosing the correct type and size of thread can mean the difference between a design that lasts for years and one that falls apart after a few wears. Understanding bead thread begins with recognizing the diversity of materials available and how each one interacts with different beading techniques and bead types.
Bead thread comes in a wide variety of materials, including nylon, polyester, polyethylene, silk, and specialized synthetic blends designed specifically for beadwork. One of the most widely used threads is Nymo, a nylon monofilament thread originally developed for industrial sewing. It is available in a range of sizes, from 00 (the thinnest) to D and beyond, with each size offering different strengths and compatibilities. For delicate seed beads or intricate loom work, thinner threads like 00 or 0 may be appropriate, allowing for multiple thread passes through tiny bead holes without risking damage or crowding. Thicker sizes such as B or D offer more durability and are better suited for off-loom techniques like peyote stitch or brick stitch, where fewer passes may be needed but strength is paramount.
Another highly regarded thread is FireLine, a braided, pre-waxed thread made of gel-spun polyethylene, originally developed as a fishing line. It’s celebrated for its exceptional strength, resistance to fraying, and near-invisibility in finished work. FireLine is especially useful for projects requiring a lot of tension or exposure to friction, such as bead weaving or working with crystals and sharp-edged beads like bugles. Sizes in FireLine are usually indicated by diameter in inches or millimeters—common choices include .006 inch (approximately 4-pound test) and .008 inch (6-pound test). While stronger and more durable than many nylon threads, FireLine can be difficult to knot and may require specialized scissors or thread burners for clean cuts.
Silamide, a pre-waxed nylon thread, is another popular option, particularly among traditionalists and those doing hand-stitching. It is strong, holds knots well, and comes in a vast array of colors, making it ideal for color-matching and minimizing thread visibility in detailed bead embroidery. Similarly, KO Thread and Miyuki Thread, both Japanese brands, offer premium nylon options that are favored for their balance of flexibility and durability, especially in precise bead weaving applications. These threads generally have a flat finish and resist fraying, reducing the need for waxing and conditioning.
Silk thread, while more commonly associated with pearl knotting and traditional stringing techniques, still holds a place in the beader’s toolkit. It has a luxurious drape and natural elasticity that lends itself beautifully to projects involving natural materials like pearls or organic gemstones. However, silk is not as abrasion-resistant as synthetic options and is more vulnerable to moisture and environmental wear, making it a less suitable choice for pieces intended for frequent wear or high-stress designs.
Choosing the right size of thread also involves understanding the inner diameter of the beads being used. Delica beads, known for their uniform cylindrical shape and narrow holes, require finer threads and needles, while larger beads like Czech glass or wooden beads can accommodate thicker threads and cord. The number of times a thread must pass through a bead hole also plays a role—techniques that involve multiple passes, such as netting or right-angle weave, require thinner threads to prevent beads from cracking or thread from bunching.
In practice, beaders often select thread not just for its size or type but also for how it behaves during stitching. Some threads are stiffer, allowing easier navigation through complex patterns, while others are more supple and provide a softer, more fluid drape. Thread conditioning, through waxing or use of products like Thread Heaven, can alter the handling characteristics of thread, adding another layer of customization and control to the crafting process.
Ultimately, understanding bead thread is about marrying the needs of your design with the properties of the materials at your disposal. Mastery in beading comes not just from selecting the most expensive or well-reviewed thread, but from developing a tactile knowledge of how different threads interact with different beads, stitches, and design demands. By investing time in learning about thread sizes and types, beaders can elevate their work from functional to extraordinary, ensuring their creations endure in both beauty and structure for years to come.