Right-angle weave, often abbreviated as RAW, is a fundamental stitch in off-loom bead weaving, prized for its strength, flexibility, and architectural possibilities. In this stitch, beads are arranged in a grid-like formation where each unit typically consists of four beads joined at right angles, forming a box or diamond shape depending on orientation. Because the entire structure of RAW depends on beads being passed through multiple times and holding specific angular positions, bead size selection is especially critical. The size, shape, and uniformity of the beads directly impact the stitch’s visual appearance, structural integrity, and drape.
The most commonly used bead sizes for right-angle weave are 11/0 and 15/0 seed beads, though 8/0 and even 6/0 beads are also used for larger-scale or beginner projects. An 11/0 seed bead generally measures about 2.0 millimeters in diameter, while a 15/0 measures closer to 1.5 millimeters. These sizes allow for multiple thread passes through the same bead, a necessity for the RAW technique, where each bead may be threaded through three or even four times, especially in embellished or layered versions of the stitch. Selecting beads with sufficiently large and smooth holes is essential to prevent thread abrasion or breakage, particularly when using heavier threads like FireLine, Wildfire, or multiple strands of fine nylon.
Uniformity in bead size is another critical factor. In RAW, each bead serves not only as a structural component but also as part of a visible pattern grid. Variations in bead size can distort the geometric alignment, causing the weave to appear warped or uneven. Japanese seed beads, such as those produced by Miyuki or Toho, are generally preferred for their high degree of consistency and larger hole sizes. Czech seed beads, while beautiful and available in more organic finishes, often display more variability in size and shape, which can be a hindrance in the precision-focused RAW technique unless the design specifically calls for a more textured or rustic appearance.
The scale of the beads also determines the overall texture and density of the finished piece. Using smaller beads like 15/0s creates a tighter, more intricate weave suitable for delicate jewelry, such as rings, bezels, or fine embellishments on fabric. Larger beads, such as 8/0s or even 6/0s, produce a more open weave that is easier to construct and ideal for teaching or for bold design statements, but they may lack the subtlety and flexibility needed for more complex shapes or tightly curved forms. For bracelets and necklaces that need to drape fluidly, 11/0 beads provide a balanced middle ground between finesse and functionality.
Another consideration is the choice of bead shape in relation to size. While traditional RAW is worked with round seed beads, other shapes such as fire-polished rounds, crystals, or cylindrical beads like Delicas or Aikos can be used. These beads tend to sit differently in the weave; for example, cylindrical beads provide a flatter, more tile-like appearance and enhance the angular grid of RAW, especially when uniformity is critical. However, their narrower profile means the resulting piece may feel more rigid or less forgiving in multidirectional bends. If using such beads, careful testing of size and thread path is recommended to ensure compatibility, especially in complex variations like cubic right-angle weave (CRAW) or prismatic right-angle weave (PRAW), where dimensionality is increased and spatial tension becomes more significant.
Bead sizing also plays a role in how the stitch handles embellishment. Many RAW-based designs include additional beads stitched along the surface or between units to enhance texture, add sparkle, or fill gaps. Using beads that are too large can leave insufficient space for embellishment, while beads that are too small can leave the weave looking unfinished or gappy. For example, using 11/0 beads for the base units and then embellishing with 15/0s ensures that the added detail doesn’t overwhelm the structure. Conversely, if a larger or more prominent embellishment is desired—such as a row of 3 mm fire-polished beads or 4 mm bicones—then the base units may need to be constructed from 8/0 or even 6/0 beads to support the weight and allow for thread space.
In addition to the beads themselves, bead sizing affects thread consumption and overall design layout. Smaller beads require more thread passes and create tighter curves, increasing friction and wear on the thread. Designers using 15/0 beads in RAW should anticipate increased thread usage and be prepared to reinforce high-tension areas more thoroughly. When planning patterns, the number of units per inch will also vary by bead size; for example, a RAW strip made with 11/0s will contain more units per inch than one made with 8/0s, affecting both length calculations and material estimates.
Finally, when adapting patterns or designing new pieces, it’s important to test different bead sizes before finalizing a project. A pattern originally written for 11/0 beads will not translate directly to 8/0s without adjusting thread path lengths, unit counts, or proportions. Because RAW forms the foundation for many other stitches and design variations, mastering the relationship between bead size and structural behavior in this stitch provides a strong base for more advanced work in beading and jewelry construction.
In summary, bead size in right-angle weave projects influences every aspect of the outcome, from visual uniformity and tactile flexibility to strength, drape, and embellishment potential. The ideal bead size balances structural need with aesthetic intention, while also accommodating the threading technique and wearability of the finished piece. Whether creating simple flat bands or intricate three-dimensional forms, understanding how bead size interacts with the RAW stitch empowers designers to produce work that is not only beautiful but also durable and well-engineered.