Creating a RAW beaded bezel for a coin charm is an elegant and rewarding project for intermediate beaders who are looking to refine their skills in structure-building and beadwork precision. Right-angle weave, often referred to as RAW, is particularly suited for bezeling flat objects like coins because of its flexible yet sturdy nature. A RAW bezel creates a beautiful, hand-stitched frame that not only secures the coin but also enhances it, adding color, texture, and a touch of personal artistry.
The process begins with careful material selection. Size 11/0 seed beads are typically the best choice for the primary structure, offering both delicacy and strength. Precision-cut seed beads like Miyuki or Toho ensure even stitching and symmetry, which is essential for achieving a snug, professional-looking bezel. For embellishment and reinforcement, smaller size 15/0 seed beads or tiny crystal bicones can be used. A strong, thin beading thread like FireLine or WildFire, in a neutral or matching color, provides the necessary durability without adding unwanted bulk. A size 12 beading needle is crucial, as the tight weave requires multiple thread passes through tiny beads.
The first step is to create a foundation row of RAW units that match the circumference of the coin. This involves stitching small squares or units of four beads, each connected to the next at a right angle. It is important to lay the foundation next to the coin during stitching to ensure that the strip of RAW units fits precisely around it. If the base is too short, the bezel will not close properly around the coin, and if it is too long, the bezel will be loose and ineffective. Adjustments are made by adding or removing units to achieve a perfect fit.
Once the foundation ring is completed and joined into a circle, the beader builds upward by adding additional RAW rows. These rows begin to form a shallow cup that will cradle the coin. It is essential to maintain consistent tension during this phase; the beads should sit snugly together without gaps, but the work should not be so tight that it becomes stiff or begins to curl inwards prematurely. Two or three rows are typically added before inserting the coin, depending on the thickness of the coin and the desired depth of the bezel.
When the base structure is ready, the coin is placed inside, and the beadwork is built up around it. To secure the coin, the beader stitches a row of smaller beads, often 15/0s, along the top edge using a technique called “stitching in the ditch,” where the needle passes between the beads of the previous RAW row. This row cinches the beadwork inward, gripping the edge of the coin tightly. For additional security and decoration, a second row of 15/0s or small crystals can be added, creating a decorative crown around the coin’s edge.
At this point, attention turns to the back of the bezel. Similar to the front, the beader stitches a few rows of RAW to cover the back perimeter of the coin, depending on how much of the back is intended to be hidden or exposed. Many beaders prefer to leave a portion of the coin’s reverse side visible, especially if it features an attractive design. The back is finished by similarly decreasing the number of beads per row, pulling the structure taut and stable.
Finally, a loop or bail is added to the top of the bezel to allow the coin charm to be hung from a chain, cord, or bracelet. This loop can be made from simple peyote-stitched rows, a RAW loop reinforced with multiple thread passes, or a fancy beaded bail incorporating crystals or metallic seed beads for extra embellishment. Care must be taken to position the loop directly above the coin’s centerline to ensure that the charm hangs evenly.
The completed RAW beaded bezel transforms a simple coin into a distinctive charm full of personality and craftsmanship. The bezel not only protects the coin from scratching and wear but also elevates its aesthetic with the beauty of fine beadwork. Successfully completing a RAW bezel for a coin charm requires precise sizing, tension control, and an eye for balanced design, making it an ideal project for an intermediate beader seeking to deepen their skills and create a meaningful, heirloom-quality piece.