Creating a RAW bezel around a teardrop stone is a deeply satisfying intermediate beading project that blends structure, precision, and artistry into a single, beautifully finished piece. Right angle weave, commonly referred to as RAW, is particularly well suited to bezeling because of its flexibility and ability to conform naturally to complex shapes like the elegant curve and pointed tip of a teardrop. This project demands close attention to detail and a good understanding of thread path navigation, but it rewards the beader with a secure, refined setting that showcases the stone’s beauty without overshadowing it.
Choosing the right teardrop stone is the starting point of the project. The stone can be a smooth cabochon, a faceted crystal, or even a handmade resin piece, as long as it has a flat back and no drilled holes. Popular choices include Swarovski or Preciosa crystals, natural gemstones like rose quartz or onyx, or artisan-crafted glass stones. Matching the size of the stone to the beadwork is crucial; a medium-sized teardrop, typically around 18mm to 30mm in height, offers a good balance between manageable detail work and impactful final appearance.
The beads selected for the RAW bezel are critical to the project’s success. Uniform size 11/0 or 15/0 seed beads ensure that the stitch maintains a smooth, even tension across the bezel, which is essential for securely holding the stone in place. For additional texture or sparkle, tiny crystals or fire-polished beads may be incorporated into the outer rows of the bezel. The thread must be strong and able to withstand multiple passes, making FireLine or Wildfire excellent choices, while a size 12 needle is ideal for fitting through the beads repeatedly without difficulty.
Construction begins by measuring around the widest part of the stone, forming a base ring using right angle weave. This base ring must fit snugly around the stone, resting just at the point where the stone’s curve begins to rise from the flat back. The RAW units are formed by picking up four beads at a time and connecting them into small, square-like structures that allow the beadwork to naturally flex around the shape of the stone. The number of units must be carefully adjusted to match the perimeter of the teardrop’s widest section, ensuring a firm but not overly tight fit.
Once the base ring is complete, the next phase involves building upward and inward to capture the stone. The beader stitches additional rows of RAW above the base ring, each row slightly pulled in tighter than the last by using either slightly smaller beads or by cinching the thread tension with each new unit. This gradual tapering is what holds the stone firmly in place. Special attention must be paid to the pointed tip of the teardrop; here, RAW units may need to be strategically decreased or shaped to form a clean, sharp finish that hugs the point without distorting the overall bezel.
When the front side is completed, the stone is inserted, and additional RAW rows are built downward along the back to complete the setting. The back bezel is generally simpler and looser than the front, designed primarily for security rather than decorative effect. After the stone is fully encased, the outermost edges can be embellished if desired. Picot edges, tiny crystal accents, or decorative loops can enhance the overall look and blend the bezel seamlessly into a larger design, such as a pendant, brooch, or elaborate earring.
Throughout the process, maintaining consistent tension and checking the fit regularly is critical. Too much looseness can result in a bezel that shifts or allows the stone to fall out, while excessive tightness can crack delicate stones or warp the RAW structure. A well-executed RAW bezel conforms to the stone like a second skin, providing both security and a beautiful, architectural frame that elevates the natural beauty of the teardrop.
The finished RAW bezel around a teardrop stone is a breathtaking centerpiece that showcases the beader’s technical mastery and artistic sensibility. Whether used as a pendant hanging from a delicate chain, incorporated into an ornate bead-embroidered collar, or framed within an intricate network of beadwork, the RAW-bezeled teardrop stands as a shining testament to the elegance and versatility of intermediate bead weaving techniques. Each project is unique, shaped by the specific stone, color palette, and creative vision of the maker, resulting in a piece that is not only wearable but also deeply personal and full of character.