The Right Angle Weave Rivoli Ring is a stunning intermediate beading project that perfectly marries structure and sparkle in a small but impactful piece of jewelry. This project challenges beaders to use their skills to create a secure bezel for a faceted crystal rivoli while also designing a comfortable and beautifully embellished band. Right angle weave, often abbreviated as RAW, is the primary stitch used and it provides a flexible yet firm framework that can be adapted to different sizes and styles of rings.
Choosing the right materials is key to achieving a polished result. The centerpiece of the ring, the rivoli, is a crystal with a faceted front and a pointed back, typically without any drilled holes. Swarovski rivolis are a classic choice for their precision-cut sparkle, but other high-quality crystal brands or even specialty glass rivolis can also be used. A 12mm or 14mm rivoli is an ideal size for a ring as it provides enough surface area for detailed work without being overwhelmingly large. To capture the rivoli, beaders typically use size 11/0 and 15/0 seed beads, with the smaller beads allowing for tighter, neater bezeling. Strong, fine beading thread such as FireLine is essential, as the project requires multiple thread passes through the same beads to tighten and secure the structure.
The construction begins by creating a base of right angle weave that fits snugly around the circumference of the rivoli. This involves stitching units of four beads together into a loop, then adding additional loops in a circular formation. Precision is vital here; the base must be neither too tight, which would cause puckering, nor too loose, which would allow the rivoli to slip out. Once the base circle is complete, additional rows are built upward, each row slightly smaller and tighter than the last. These rows form the bezel that cradles the rivoli and lock it securely into place without any glue or backing. Size 15/0 seed beads are often introduced as the bezel rows advance to help cinch the beadwork tightly over the domed crystal, creating a neat and professional finish.
After the rivoli is securely captured, attention turns to creating the band of the ring. Using the same right angle weave technique, the band is stitched outward from opposite sides of the bezel. A single-row band made of 11/0 seed beads provides a slim and elegant look, while a double-row or embellished band can add drama and comfort, depending on personal preference. It is important to keep the tension consistent so that the band remains flexible enough to slip over the finger but snug enough to hold the ring in place without spinning. Some designs incorporate additional embellishments on the band, such as tiny crystal bicones or accent beads woven into the RAW structure for extra sparkle and texture.
Joining the two ends of the band seamlessly is the final technical challenge. This typically involves carefully stitching the last units of right angle weave to the starting end, reinforcing the join several times to ensure that it is strong and unobtrusive. Extra thread passes are made throughout the structure, particularly around the bezel, to reinforce and tighten the beadwork without distorting the shape of the ring.
A finished Right Angle Weave Rivoli Ring is a miniature masterpiece of light, texture, and craftsmanship. The captured rivoli acts like a tiny mirror, catching and reflecting light with every movement, while the intricate beadwork highlights the beader’s technical skill. Whether made in soft metallics for a subtle elegance or bold jewel tones for a statement piece, each ring is a unique expression of artistry and technique, small enough to be created in an afternoon but special enough to be treasured for years.